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No ordinary nut mix

First-class airline passengers nostalgic for that first time the flight attendant presented a porcelain dish of warm nuts as their 747 taxied down the runway, glass of Merlot in place in the arm rest-tray table, are in for a soft landing at VinoVino, the Tribeca wine bar where proprietor Jay Donayre has taken nuts to a new altitude.

Summoning both savory and sweet flavors, the mix typically combines almonds, cashews, walnuts and pecans, lightly tossed with finely chopped herbs such as rosemary, sage, thyme, and an occasional touch of oregano and marjoram. To fuse the blend, which is made only in small batches for $5 per 8-ounce ramekin, he adds maple syrup, olive oil, and a touch of honey and cayenne pepper, and then lightly roasts it in a toaster-oven, finishing it with sea salt to taste when the mixture is at its stickiest.

“The key is not over-roasting,” said Donayre. “And retaining the fresh herb aroma.”

That aroma is apt to waft through the VinoVino space, where cured meats and cheeses can also be bought to accompany a richly varied wine list that spans the gamut from Chablis to Madeira.

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