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Surprising BDX blanc

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Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2007 Blanc, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France (14%)
$78 at Garnet Wines & Liquors

Don't normally write about pricier wines, but fortunately, celebrations give good excuses to indulge. This Sauvignon Blanc-based gem might have you expecting a bright light fresh white. Not. Yellow gold in the glass, with aromas of apricot, exotic tropical fruit, brown butter and spice. Rich and complex in the mouth, with continuing intense fruit flavors, bitter notes, but brightened with a surprising amount of citrus acidity. Perfect with earthy ripe cheeses or maybe a veal roast with wild mushrooms.

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